I was way lucky, though, to spend Independence eve on a bus to the colonial town of Dolores Hidalgo, where Mexican Independence was first declared. It was there in 1810 that Father Miguel Hidalgo, upon hearing that Spanish authorities had sniffed out signs of the upcoming rebellion, issued what is now popularly known as El Grito (the scream) of Independence. The crowd of campesinos who had trekked into town to hear Father Hidalgo say mass, instead heard him screaming a call to arms.
My friend Colleen and I decided to hop the tour bus at the last minute, joining a group of mostly middle-aged and elderly patriots on their way to this otherwise sleepy mountain town. Spirits were high. People couldn't wait to join the crowds in Dolores Hidalgo's central plaza, where they would hear the governor's rendition of El Grito at midnight. Back in the capital, millions of Mexicans were turning on their radios and TVs, and the brave ones flooding into the Zocalo in front of the National Palace, and hear President Calderon scream the same scream.
Here's a postcard from our bus ride, where we got a sneak preview of what El Grito would sound like.
Bus Tour Guide: Right there, that guy!
Colleen: Ready, everyone?
Me: You sir? Ok, you. Please.
Man: Mexicans! Long live the heroes who gave us both country and liberty!
Bus riders: ¡Viva!
Bus riders: ¡Viva!
Bus riders: ¡Viva!
Bus riders: ¡Viva!
Bus riders: ¡Viva!
Man: ¡Viva Mexico!
Bus riders: ¡Viva!
Man: ¡¡Viva Mexico!!
Bus riders: ¡¡Viva!!
Man: ¡¡¡Viva Mexico!!!
Bus riders: ¡¡¡Viva!!!
(applause)
Bus riders: (chanting) Again! Again!
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